I have a couple post about Quasar Crossfade tubes. These are great lights; easy to rig with adjustable color temp and a high output.
Unfortunately, dealing with flicker is an intermittent problem.
There are 2 sources of this problem. One is the dimmers themselves. The triac hand dimmers, which are often used to dim these, cannot handle the small load of the LEDs. Using dimmers specifically designed for use with LEDs will almost always correct this issue. Another, but awkward solution, is to add a phantom load to the dimmer, like a 25 watt tungsten bulb.
The other cause of flicker is the tubes over-heating. Crossfade tubes are high output LEDs which use passive cooling. If you work with these tubes, you know they get very hot. If they overheat, they will randomly flicker.
I generally use Crossfade tubes in Kino Flo housings. In addition, there is sometimes a snapgrid over the fixture. This means heat being trapped inside the fixture. Then the lights start flickering.
I tried removing the reflector which helps a great deal, but I didn't like that the fixture was just black inside. Also, the Kino Flo grid cannot be easily attached. It attaches to the reflector with velcro.
Then I tried using the reflector with vent holes drilled in them. This seemed to work okay, but just last week, and it was a very hot day, I was dealing with flicker. The solution was to turn the lights off between takes, but that is awkward.
My newest solution is to remove the reflectors entirely. Unfortunately, this means losing the attachment points for the Kino Flo grids. For my 4'x4s and 6'x4s, this is not an issue becasue I have snap-grids for these lights. I prefer using the snap-grids anyhow.
I don't have snap-grids for my 8'x2s. I found a simple solution is to attach velcro strips to the outside of the doors that line up with the Kino Flo grids. The grids then securely attach just inside the edge of the doors. They are probably more effective this way, too, since the grids are further away from the lamps.
After removing the reflectors, I painted the inside of the Kino Flo fixture white.
I'm pleased with how it turned out. The lights look professional. Testing them, I was not having issues with the lights flickering from overheating. I think this will be a good solution which will prevent overheating most of the time.
PS: I have been using Kino Flo 4x4 housing with Crossfade tubes for sometime. Recently, I added 2-6'x4 Mega Flo housings and 2-8'x2 Mega Flo housings with Crossfade tubes.
I love the form-factor of these larger sources. They have quickly become some of my favorite lights.
I don't think it is an issue with the 4'x4s, or the 6'x4s, but with the 8'x2s, I have concern that only having 2 clips holding each 8-foot Crossfade tube might not be secure and safe. These lights were designed to hold light-weight fluorescent tubes. The Crossfade tubes are much heavier.
To make it safer, I added a third row of clips to my 8'x2s. The Crossfade tubes are firmly held in place with the addition of another row of clips.
Unfortunately, dealing with flicker is an intermittent problem.
There are 2 sources of this problem. One is the dimmers themselves. The triac hand dimmers, which are often used to dim these, cannot handle the small load of the LEDs. Using dimmers specifically designed for use with LEDs will almost always correct this issue. Another, but awkward solution, is to add a phantom load to the dimmer, like a 25 watt tungsten bulb.
The other cause of flicker is the tubes over-heating. Crossfade tubes are high output LEDs which use passive cooling. If you work with these tubes, you know they get very hot. If they overheat, they will randomly flicker.
I generally use Crossfade tubes in Kino Flo housings. In addition, there is sometimes a snapgrid over the fixture. This means heat being trapped inside the fixture. Then the lights start flickering.
I tried removing the reflector which helps a great deal, but I didn't like that the fixture was just black inside. Also, the Kino Flo grid cannot be easily attached. It attaches to the reflector with velcro.
 |
| 6'x4 with vent holes drilled in the reflector |
Then I tried using the reflector with vent holes drilled in them. This seemed to work okay, but just last week, and it was a very hot day, I was dealing with flicker. The solution was to turn the lights off between takes, but that is awkward.
My newest solution is to remove the reflectors entirely. Unfortunately, this means losing the attachment points for the Kino Flo grids. For my 4'x4s and 6'x4s, this is not an issue becasue I have snap-grids for these lights. I prefer using the snap-grids anyhow.
I don't have snap-grids for my 8'x2s. I found a simple solution is to attach velcro strips to the outside of the doors that line up with the Kino Flo grids. The grids then securely attach just inside the edge of the doors. They are probably more effective this way, too, since the grids are further away from the lamps.
After removing the reflectors, I painted the inside of the Kino Flo fixture white.
 |
| Painted 6'x4. Note the strips of velcro. These are for a snapgrid. |
I'm pleased with how it turned out. The lights look professional. Testing them, I was not having issues with the lights flickering from overheating. I think this will be a good solution which will prevent overheating most of the time.
PS: I have been using Kino Flo 4x4 housing with Crossfade tubes for sometime. Recently, I added 2-6'x4 Mega Flo housings and 2-8'x2 Mega Flo housings with Crossfade tubes.
I love the form-factor of these larger sources. They have quickly become some of my favorite lights.
I don't think it is an issue with the 4'x4s, or the 6'x4s, but with the 8'x2s, I have concern that only having 2 clips holding each 8-foot Crossfade tube might not be secure and safe. These lights were designed to hold light-weight fluorescent tubes. The Crossfade tubes are much heavier.
To make it safer, I added a third row of clips to my 8'x2s. The Crossfade tubes are firmly held in place with the addition of another row of clips.
 |
| Center clips added to 8'x2 |